Katherine Gorge from The Ghan: Crocodiles, Cliffs and Ancient Rock Art

 

Cruising between the towering sandstone walls of Nitmiluk Gorge during our stop in Katherine

Katherine Gorge from The Ghan: Crocodiles,

Cliffs and Ancient Rock Art

Travelling from Alice Springs to Darwin aboard The Ghan was already a memorable family adventure, but one of its most impressive experiences happened after we left the train.

The following morning, The Ghan stopped in Katherine so passengers could join a selection of off-train excursions. We chose to visit Katherine Gorge, now commonly known by its traditional name, Nitmiluk Gorge.

A bus collected us from the train and carried us through the Northern Territory landscape to Nitmiluk National Park. From there, we boarded a small cruise boat to explore the gorge directly from the water.

This excursion was one part of our broader journey from Alice Springs to Darwin aboard The Ghan.

An Unexpected Welcome from the Flying Foxes

Hundreds of flying foxes gathered in the trees near the beginning of our excursion

Before reaching the boat, we noticed hundreds of flying foxes hanging from the trees overhead.

There were so many gathered in the canopy that it was impossible to ignore their presence. I must admit, it was a somewhat startling welcome! Their dark shapes filled the branches, making the normally quiet trees feel strangely alive.

However, once we boarded the boat and began travelling along the river, that uneasy first impression quickly faded into excitement.

Cruising Beneath Enormous Sandstone Cliffs

The naturally sculpted sandstone walls looked almost like enormous works of art

The view from the water was extraordinary.

Nitmiluk is a complex system of 13 gorges winding along the Katherine River. From our small boat, the sandstone walls appeared to rise almost vertically from the water’s edge.

The natural patterns, colors, and textures in the rock looked like massive sculptures shaped by a master artist. Some sections were smooth and softly curved, while others were layered, cracked, and dramatically weathered by time.

It was humbling to reflect on the sheer number of years—and the constant forces of water, wind, and changing seasons—required to carve out this landscape. The boat moved quietly between the cliffs, giving us ample time to take in the scale of our surroundings.

A Crocodile Resting Beside the River

A crocodile resting quietly beside the river appeared peaceful—but we kept a respectful distance

During the cruise, we spotted a freshwater crocodile resting along the edge of the water.

Lying motionless in the sunshine, it looked completely relaxed. It was easy to forget that these are powerful wild creatures whose calm appearance belies their true nature. Seeing one in its natural environment was fascinating, though we were glad to observe it safely from the deck of our boat.

This quiet sighting was quite a contrast to the dynamic crocodile-watching river cruise near Darwin that we experienced later in our itinerary.

Ancient Jawoyn Rock Art

Nitmiluk—Jawoyn people sharing their Country and culture with visitors

Another highlight of the excursion was viewing Aboriginal rock art inside the gorge.

After disembarking for part of the tour, we walked through the rocky landscape to view art painted onto sheltered surfaces, including high rock faces and overhanging walls.

Jawoyn rock art within the gorge offered a powerful connection to the cultural history of Country

Standing before the artwork, it was amazing to contemplate how the artists reached these elevated spots and how the pigments have endured in such a raw environment over generations.

More importantly, the artwork served as a reminder that Nitmiluk is far more than a scenic tourist spot. Nitmiluk National Park lies on the traditional lands of the Jawoyn people, for whom these lands hold deep living cultural significance. The art represents stories, history, and sacred knowledge connected with Country.

Our time here, along with our subsequent family journey into Arnhem Land, continuously deepened our appreciation for First Nations culture and remote Australian landscapes

More Than an Off-Train Excursion

Our visit to Katherine Gorge lasted only half a day, but it stands out as one of the most vivid memories from our entire Ghan trip.
From the dramatic greeting by the flying fox colony to the towering canyon walls, peaceful river bends, resting wildlife, and ancient rock art, it exceeded all expectations.
What began as a simple itinerary stop became a deeply meaningful connection to Australia’s Red Centre and Top End. When we reboarded The Ghan and continued north toward Darwin, we carried a profound respect for Nitmiluk with us.

About Nitmiluk Gorge: Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) consists of 13 deep gorges carved through ancient sandstone by the Katherine River within Nitmiluk National Park. Located on the traditional lands of the Jawoyn people, the park entrance is situated approximately 30 kilometers northeast of the town of Katherine, Northern Territory.